Laud Media https://laud-media.com User-friendly solutions for video, audio and digital signage. Tue, 18 Apr 2023 05:06:24 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.2.4 https://laud-media.com/resources/lm-monogram_web_black.svg Laud Media https://laud-media.com 32 32 Totem Feedback Form https://laud-media.com/uncategorized/totem-feedback-form/ Mon, 08 Aug 2022 09:29:49 +0000 https://laud-media.com/?p=8512

Hi! Laud Media will soon be replacing the existing screens inside your totem display with LED panels. In preparation for this we need your help with a few measurements and details. Please follow along:

1. Measure the inside of the totem frame (not the TVs)

On the front of your existing totem display, measure the total height (A) and width (B) of the insides of the frame.

2. Get Model and Type codes

Walk behind the totem, find the model (C) and type (D) code at the technical label on one of the existing screens.

3. Provide some details and Send

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EAS Admin Downloads https://laud-media.com/support/eas/downloads/ Thu, 09 Sep 2021 08:28:11 +0000 https://laud-media.com/?p=7637

EAS Admin Full Version

Download (~76 MB)

Changelog:

  • Channel routing in the Input module on supported amplifiers.
  • In addition to DSP configuration reset and storing your changes, you can now revert to your last saved settings by holding in the Restore (on up-to-date firmware).
  • Hardware Status now also checks if there is signal on speaker outputs. This will also display in the Dashboard.
  • The EAS-CP-MX4 input mixer and control panel now supports the disabling and volume locking of inputs.
    • Disable inputs they are not to be used, and the physical label on the control panel front reflects this. This will turn off all LED indicators and prohibit any and all interaction with the input as if it wasn’t there.
    • Use Volume Lock if you want to prevent control panels from adjusting input volumes. As long as an input is locked, volume changes on that specific input can only be done using EAS Admin.
  • All numeric values can now be typed in manually instead of using the mouse on the rotary control. The values you enter will be corrected/rounded to the closest possible valid/supported number.
    • Click the value to enter manual input mode.
    • Click outside the value to apply the new value.
    • Optionally, press the Esc key to cancel.
  • Auto-detection of the EAS-adapter dongle has been improved.
  • Chromium web engine version has been updated.
  • Additional minor bug fixes and performance enhancements.

Download (~40 MB)

Changelog:

  • Support for EAS-CP-MX4
  • Rework of the group allocation function.

Download (~40 MB)

Changelog:

  • Fixed a bug where EAS Admin would crash when communicating with an FX Panel that sent corrupt data.

Download (~40 MB)

Changelog:

  • Fully implemented the phase invert feature to the Filter section in the DSP controll strip.

EAS Admin Dashboard Version

Download (~76 MB)

Changelog:

  • In addition to speaker detection, the Dashboard will now indicate if there is a signal on the speaker output.

Download (~40 MB)

Changelog:

  • Support for EAS-CP-MX4

Download (~40 MB)

Changelog:

  • Initial version.

USB interface drivers

In most cases modern Windows systems will recognize our hardware automatically, but in the rare event that there’s no COM port to select when trying to connect to an EAS system, try installing this driver:

Download (7 MB)

Unzip everything to a folder and run the file CP210xVCPInstaller_x64.exe. Only if you’re using a really old version of Windows should you run the x86 version instead.

You can also try installing this universal driver manually:

Download (0.2 MB)

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Troubleshooting the TV- and PCM Demo https://laud-media.com/support/proselector/tv-demo/ Wed, 18 Aug 2021 12:12:48 +0000 https://laud-media.com/?p=7585

Hi! Are you experiencing problems with one or more TV Demo-units in your TV department? Or maybe we have been annoying you with one too many e-mails saying you have issues?
You’ve come to the right place! 

Pssst, most of the points underneath does also comply if you have problems with the PC-monitors in your computing department.

First of all

Does everything look good to you? And yet, we are determined you have a unit offline? Then you might have disconnected a unit when selling or changing the product mix.
Please notify us by sending us an email with the serial number shown underneath the ProSelector D4 (you know, that cool purple HDMI-dongle-thingy). And store the spare unit securely for when you need it again!

The red square

A red square around the QR-code, usually supplemented with “Price last updated” in the overlay indicates that the unit in question is offline. 
The first thing you need to do is to restart the unit. Simply disconnect and reconnect the USB cable that is powering the unit.

The red square in question is located around the QR-code (top right corner)
  • If the red square is still present you need to connect a USB mouse (preferably a cabled one) to the unit. 
  • Using the cursor shown on the screen, press the top right corner. You should now see a status bar on the right side.
    • If all icons are green, you should stop now and contact us.
  • If one or more icons are red, press “Open Settings” and access the administrative parts of the application using the PIN code we have provided you by email.
Status bar on the right
Use the PIN code we have provided by email
  • Go into the Wi-Fi menu and check if the unit is indeed connected to a Wi-Fi network you are familiar with. If not, you might want to do something about it.
  • If the unit is online, but still displaying the red square, please contact us at once, have the ID of the unit handy.

Not even synchronized

  • If one or more TVs differ from the others. Meaning it is not showing exactly the same picture as all the other TVs there might be issues with your network.
  • First of all, you should check if the difference is in fact not intended. I.e. someone has changed the source or started a demo on the TV.
  • If it should be synchronized, you should start by restarting the unit. Simply disconnect and reconnect the USB cable that is powering the unit.

If that didn’t work you might want to contact us at this point.

The TV isn't complying, at all

Is there a specific model or brand that isn’t doing exactly what you want it to do?
You could check one or few of these things:

  • CEC (AnyNet, T-link) should be turned ON
  • Power saving, eco-mode and other modes that turn off the TV have to be OFF
  • WiFi have to be OFF when not in use
  • Demo mode, Shop mode, storage mode, store enviroment etc have to be OFF
    (set to Home mode)
  • Scanning for resolution should be ON (not AUTO)
  • The picture is 16×9, fit too screen.

Still lost in the jungle of TV menus?
Give us a call, we might have amazing skills in this aswell!

There is no picture, nothing

Do you have a black screen in your store?

  • First of all, please check if the actual TV is on and the correct source is selected.
  • Now check the ProSelector.
    • The purple dongle connected with a short HDMI cable, behind the TV.
    • Do you see a blue light on it, indicating that it is on?
      • If not, check the USB cable. It should be connected to a power source (usually the TV in question). The Micro USB connector should be connected to the short side of the ProSelector indicated by “DC” underneath. Furthermore, the short HDMI cable connected to the ProSelector should be connected to the TV.
  • Now, if the ProSelector isn’t showing the blue light it might be dead. Try changing the cable. If that doesn’t do the trick you need to contact us.
  • If the unit is indicating that it is on, and it is connected to the TV the correct way, but still isn’t showing any amazing images, try moving it to a screen you know is working. If you get a picture on another screen the TV itself might be faulty – we can’t help you with that.

If this didn’t help and you are still experiencing issues, we want to hear from you!

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How to get an Android-based media player online https://laud-media.com/support/network-android/ Wed, 25 Nov 2020 13:47:22 +0000 http://18.198.192.240/?p=6159

This is part 2 of the Media player network guide, specifically intended for users of models XMP-2100/2200, XMP-6250/6400 and XMP-7300. If that doesn’t tell you anything, you should press here to read part 1 first.

3. Enter the settings screen

Go find an USB computer mouse. When you plug the USB cable (or wireless adapter) into a USB port on the media player, you will see a mouse pointer on the connected screen. Move it to one of the four corners, then press-and-hold the left mouse button for 10 seconds. You should now see a screen showing a pause icon in the middle with a countdown around it.

Press the pause button before the count down is finished.

4. Confirm content source settings

Press Set content on bottom left. The next screen should give you a rather long URL starting with http://tv.laud-media.com. If the URL is missing or contains something else, contact us! You will not get the media player to work without our assistance.
But if it looks correct, just press Set to get back to the settings screen.

5. Check the IP address

Look under where it says Network in green. It tells you the Ethernet IP address and/or Wireless LAN IP address. There must be at least one correct address here, which normally starts with the number 10 or 192. If they are both empty or start with the number 0 or 169, there’s something wrong.

Some normal problems and how to fix them:

  • Do you have a network cable connected to the media player, but there’s no Ethernet IP address? That means it’s having trouble reaching what’s called a DHCP server.
    • First make sure that HDCP is enabled by clicking Ethernet on the middle of the settings screen, then Ethernet configuration.
    • Confirm that DHCP is selected under Connection Type, then click Save below.
    • Now press your right mouse button to go back to the settings screen. Wait a few seconds to see if a new, useable IP address appears under Ethernet.
  • If the new IP doesn’t show in a matter of seconds, there’s a network problem at your location. Follow the network cable, make sure every connection is solid and ends up in a switch somewhere. If this sounds like Greek to you, or there’s no obvious fault on the network, contact your local network administrator.
  • Do you have a network cable connected to the media player, and need to enter a manual IP address? This is rarely the case, but if your network administrator tells you and provides the necessary settings, do this:
    • Click Ethernet on the middle of the settings screen, then Ethernet configuration.
    • Select Static IP as your Connection Type, enter your settings below and click Save.
    • Now press your right mouse button to go back to the settings screen. Your manual IP should be stated under Ethernet.
  • I want to use Wi-Fi. How do I connect?
    • Click Wireless LAN on the middle of the settings screen
    • Make sure the on/off switch in the upper right corner is set to On.
    • Click the most stable network in the list on the right, enter the password and press Connect.
    • Wait for the small text under your network name to say Connected. If it doesn’t, go back one step and try again.
    • Now press your right mouse button to go back to the settings screen. A useable IP address should be stated under Wireless LAN.
  • If there’s no IP or something didn’t work while connecting to your selected Wi-Fi network, there’s a network problem at your location. Contact your local network administrator.

If none of this helped, there’s not much more we can do. You need the person responsible for the network at your location to help out.

6. Resume content playback

But if you think you found and fixed the problem, return to the settings screen, let the count down do it’s thing or press Play to resume content playback. Give the media player about 15 minutes to reboot, check for updates, download media, etc. Again, it will try to hide any and every problem, so look for updated content or some other sign that the internet connection is working like it should. You can also contact us to confirm.
And if things really seems to be fixed and working – good job!


As always, if any of these instructions were unclear to you, or in any way didn’t cover your particular situation, don’t hesitate to contact us.

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How to get a media player online https://laud-media.com/support/mediaplayer/network/ Wed, 25 Nov 2020 13:02:39 +0000 http://18.198.192.240/?p=6116

So you’re having trouble with an offline Media player? You’ve come to the right place. Let’s do this step by step.

Important: First, we need to distinguish between the device itself and the network it’s trying to connect to. We can help you use the Media player device and getting it connected, but if your location has a faulty network or bad Wi-Fi coverage … that’s out of our reach. Sorry. If this is the case, you need to speak to the person responsible at your location.

Now let’s get started!

Find the device in question

 The Media players are designed to pretend everything is fine at all times, even when they are offline. This means that to even notice it’s offline you’ll have to be notified by us or discover in some other way. Let’s say you were expecting a special ad during a campaign, but it never seem to arrive on your screens. That is a red flag. If you see an ad for Windows 8 after Windows 10 is out, that’s also a red flag. When that happens, you can either contact us to confirm that there’s a problem, or just get right to work.

So you know that there’s a problem, and the “offline screen” tells you where the problem is. Start searching for a box that looks like one of these

If there’s no obvious place for it to be, trace the HDMI cable(s) to the actual player.

Determine the device model 

You found the media player? Great. There is a sticker on the underside stating the model number. If it’s hard to reach or see for some reason, compare and click the correct device of the pictures below.

XMP-6250
XMP-6400
XMP-7300
XMP-3250
XMP-3350
XMP-2200
XMP-2300
IOBOX
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How to update the ProSelector app https://laud-media.com/support/update-app/ Wed, 25 Nov 2020 09:19:10 +0000 http://18.198.192.240/?p=6072 So your ProSelector app is old and needs an upgrade? You’ve come to the right place. Let’s do this step by step.


1. Find the device in question

We have designed ProSelector to pretend everything is fine at all times, even when it’s offline. The show must go on, but offline devices will have a “blinking planet” on the screen. Look for it.

2. Enter the administrative part of the app

Recent Versions

Touching the topmost right corner you should now see a status bar on the right side.

Status

Have a look at the status icons. If one of them are red it is necessary to “Open Settings”.

PIN

Enter the secret code (you can find your code at the bottom of the email you got from us).

If you do not get these options, you might have an older version, see below.

3. Accept the update when prompted

Recent Versions

As soon as you enter the administative part of the app you’ll get a prompt asking if you want to upgrade.

Simply accept this and go along witht the upgrade process on the screen. Agree and accept anything and everything if asked.

If you didn’t get this prompt, click App on the left to check which version is installed. In the parentheses next to the version number it tells you if the device is up-to-date or not.

  • If it says you’re up-to-date, great! You’re done here. Resume content playback by clicking the backbutton on the black bar below.
  • If it says you need to upgrade but you didn’t get the prompt, the device is having trouble getting through to the internet. Please refer to this guide on how to get a working internet connection on your ProSelector devices.

Hopefully you now have a ProSelector device that’s fully up-to-date. If you’re still experiencing some kind of problem or could not understand the guidelines provided above, don’t hesitate to contact Laud Media support.

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How to get a working internet connection on your ProSelector devices https://laud-media.com/support/proselector/network/ Wed, 18 Nov 2020 09:33:35 +0000 http://18.184.53.122/?p=5879

So you’re having trouble with an offline ProSelctor? You’ve come to the right place. Let’s do this step by step.

Important: First, we need to distinguish between the device itself and the network it’s trying to connect to. We can help you use the ProSelector device and getting it connected, but if your location has a faulty network or bad Wi-Fi coverage … that’s out of our reach. Sorry. If this is the case, you need to speak to the person responsible at your location.

And by the way, if you at any point don’t recognize the images and examples used, you might have an old app version. Click here to see older images and examples.

Now let’s get started!

Find the device in question

We have designed ProSelector to pretend everything is fine at all times, even when it’s offline. The show must go on, but offline devices will have a “blinking planet” on the screen. Look for it.

Enter the administrative part of the app

Touching the topmost right corner you should now see a status bar on the right side.

Status

Have a look at the status icons. If one of them are red it is necessary to “Open Settings”.

PIN

Enter the secret code (you can find your code at the bottom of the email you got from us).

If you do not get these options, you might have an older version, see below.

Analyze the results

Depending on what the lights tell you, there’s a few possible scenarios:

 Local network
 Internet
 WebService
We need to connect to a network from scratch. Skip ahead.
 Local network
 Internet
 WebService
The device is getting what it needs to function on the local network, but has trouble getting through to the internet. Normally this means there’s a bad network configuration somewhere or your internet service provider is having trouble. Make whoever is in charge aware of this, as it might also affect other devices in your store.
 Local network
 Internet
 WebService
This suggests that our system is having down time. We’re most probably working on it already, but don’t hesitate to contact us. Check back in a little while.
 Local network
 Internet
 WebService
Great, your device is fully connected! Resume playing the content as usual, or if you wan’t to double check: press general on the left and change content to see if the device is able to download new stuff, then switch back if successful.

Connect to the local network

  1. Still in the network tab, press the network settings button below the lights. You’re now in the familiar Android Settings-app.
  2. Make sure both Ethernet and Wi-Fi is set to ON.
  3. If you’re using a wired connection and there’s a network cable connected to your ProSelector device, press Ethernet to see your settings. Not much to do here other than confirming the configuration is as expected.

    Take a look at where it says IP address. If it’s blank or begins with the numbers 0 or 169, then you know your device can’t reach the local network (more specifically the DHCP server), so it’s either a bad configuration somewhere or the actual cable isn’t fully patched from the device to the next network device (most probably a switch in a rack somewhere).

    You’ve found the problem, so this is where you stop reading and start fixing. Use this information when you talk to your local network administrator.
  4. If you’re using Wi-Fi on the other hand, press Wi-Fi on the left to get the usual list of available networks on the right. Select the most suitable network, enter the password and wait for a successful connection. When you get it, skip back to step 3 and 4.

    If you can’t get a working Wi-Fi connection, talk to your local network administrator about how to get your device online at that particular location.

Hopefully you now have a ProSelector device that’s fully connected to both the internet and our system. If you’re still experiencing some kind of problem or could not understand the guidelines provided above, don’t hesitate to contact Laud Media support.

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An introduction to EAS https://laud-media.com/support/eas/introduction/ Tue, 28 Jul 2020 06:19:17 +0000 http://18.184.53.122/?p=4525 When you’re trying to understand a large topic, it can be tempting to start reading about the details, since there might be a resource teaching you to do that one specific thing. This article, however, will try to approach the EAS system on broader terms. If you want to understand what you’re doing when building an EAS system, this is a good place to start.

The water hose

To understand anything about EAS, you have to understand how the bus behaves. Let’s distance ourselves from the technical side of the system for a moment and think of the bus as a water hose. You’re not building a sound system for a building, but a watering system in your garden. Where you want the water to go, the hose must go – right?

So, we’ve got some outlets from our hose at the tress, the tulips, roses, and the lawn, but there’s no water yet. The hose is there to transfer and distribute water to all outlets along the way and doesn’t really care how or where the water gets in, so let’s just hook it up to a water tap somewhere.

The tap is in place, and no matter where we connect it, the water will flow to all outlets.

Back to reality

Now let’s convert this concept to a building that needs sound in four locations. Let’s make it a mid-size restaurant with an entrance, a dining room, a bar, and a kitchen.

As you can see, the curly water hose is still there, providing an outlet to all four areas of the building. It’s time to switch out the imaginary water hose with a signal path flowing through cables in our EAS bus.

Let’s say there’s a technical room at the end of the hallway. Since it doesn’t matter where the bus gets its sound from, we’ll put an input module and a Spotify music streamer there.

Remember, the music audio signal flows through our bus like water in a hose. If the music streamer was located in the kitchen or behind the bar, you would get the same result.

Three components

To keep it simple we have pictured the bus as a single water hose with a single flow of water inside, but in fact, there are three separate components inside the bus. They all flow in the same manner but contain very different things: audio, power, and data.

The EAS system uses off-the-shelf shielded CAT-6 cables to carry the bus, both since they are so available, and because we can use the eight separate wires inside this type of cable to carry the three different components. Let’s look at each one in greater detail:

Audio

Two channels of audio get distributed using balanced analog transmissions. Since it flows through the bus like water in a hose, there’s no need for addressing. Just add to the bus as many output modules as you need – they all simply get the same signal.

There can however be only one input module playing over the bus at any given time, so if you want more than one sound source, you’ll have to mix them down to two channels before entering the bus, or you’ll switch between sources using a system controller audio matrix like the EAS-SYSCON-12. More on that later.

Power

To power DSPs and other electronics onboard the modules, 15 volts of power also flow like water inside a separate part of the bus. One power supply per bus. You just need to make it’s got enough power to go around for all the modules connected to the bus, and that’s taken care of.

Depending on the modules you’re using, though, there might be some options and things to consider. For instance, some modules have the option to serve as a power supply for the rest of the bus (or not). A few will need a separate power supply to serve extended 24-volt amplifiers. Others just live off the 15 volts flowing along the bus.

So both be aware of the power requirements of each module you use and how many watts you need for the entire bus to be powered off that one single power supply. You’ll find figures on power consumption on each module’s product page or datasheet.

Data

Lastly, you should be aware of the digtal data communications flowing along the bus. The water hose analogy is true here as well, but you won’t have to supply it like you would audio and power. This is simply the modules themselves talking to each other to change volumes and other parameters. You can also communicate with modules using the EAS Admin software to change DSP settings, make volume groups, configure a SYSCON, make presets, etc.

One bus

When we put the three components together again, the bus flowing through our building looks a bit more like this:

  • Audio (in orange) enters the bus from the music streamer in the technical room, then flows like water in a hose to whoever wants to listen in. An amplifier module with a few speakers in each room, and you’re done. They all get the same signal.
  • For this example, power (in blue) gets supplied from the kitchen. There you’ll find an EAS-AMP-250D amplifier. It has a built-in power supply that can both power the module itself and an option to serve 15 volts to the rest of the bus simultaneously, so we chose to power this small system that way.
  • And again, data (in green) just flows along the bus without you needing to think about it.

What about multiple inputs?

Sure, in larger systems that might be required. Maybe there are microphones here and there, a DJ input in the lounge, or multiple music players lined up with different types of music.

In larger systems, it’s also fair to assume you’ve got more than one bus going to more than one physical area as well, right? And you’ve just learned that you can only have one two-channel audio source going to each bus at the time, right? So how do we do that?

In any modern house, you’ll have water pipes going to different rooms like the toilet, bathroom, kitchen, the tap to water your garden outside, etc. All these pipes gather somewhere central, usually behind a closed door in your basement. Down there you can adjust the water pressure and even shut off the water flow to parts of your house.

In simple terms, this is essentially what a system controller does. Here’s a picture of the EAS-SYSCON-12:

Our water analogy ends here though since this module not only could route water to the bathroom but send milk to the toilet, juice to the kitchen, and water your garden with coffee – all at the same time. Multiple inputs going to multiple outputs. It’s a central device that handles many buses, instantly mixing and matching inputs and outputs and volumes and mutes depending on the situation.

Let’s talk a bit about how it works without going too far down the rabbit hole. You can see RCA inputs and outputs up top, and a row of twelve RJ-45 ports for CAT-6 cables down below. These ports connect to your buses and act in one of two ways:

  1. As an audio source and starting point of a normal bus, like the one we set up in our restaurant example above.
  2. Or as an audio input and endpoint of a bus connected to input modules, like microphone inputs, XLR/RCA receivers, etc.

That means you both have local RCA inputs on the module itself and can get audio from far away by using one or more ports for receiving audio from an EAS bus. It might be obvious by now but a port/bus only goes one way.

Expanding a bit

Let’s up the game in our restaurant example by adding the following:

  • We want each of the four areas to have its own bus (some call these “zones”), allowing for different audio sources in each zone.
  • We want an RCA input and a microphone available for DJs playing in the bar on weekends.
  • We also want two Spotify streamers in the technical room playing two different styles of music. Business in the morning, party in the evening.

Yes, it definitely got a bit more cluttered, but hang in there.

Focus first on the input side in blue. You’ve got your two Spotify streamers in the technical room going into the system controller locally. You’ve also got a bus connected to one of the ports coming from the bar, carrying a mix of microphone and DJ deck audio.

On the output side in orange, there are four buses going to each area of the building. To keep it simple we just have one amplifier in each area connected to some in-ceiling and wall-mounted speakers.

The system controller would also take care of the 15-volt power we discussed earlier, distributing current from one power supply in the technical room down the lines just like it does with audio.

Expanding a lot

But what about huge spaces, long distances, and large amounts of speakers? While this is just an introduction, there are a few concepts you should know about:

Delay

In huge spaces, or really any space where the speed of sound has a distracting and destructive effect on sound quality, we make an equally huge effort on compensating with delay capabilities in all amplifiers and even some distributing modules.

Since the human ear starts to notice time differences from multiple sound sources down to 6 ms, it’s no wonder that sound feels smudged, mushy, and even like an echo when speakers here and there starts at the same time in a large room.

What the EAS system does is make it easy to delay the sound going to speakers further away from a zero delay location. Together with smart speaker placement, you remove the timing difference between the speakers, and all of a sudden you create an in-sync sound space. It’s a night-and-day difference.

Long distances

While long distances in the same physical space are handled by delay, long distances of pure transmission/distribution is another concern. But we have never, in any project, experienced any significant loss over the EAS-bus, even when pushing it to upwards of 200 meters.

If you wanted to go further on a single bus, your main concern would be a drop in voltage, but then using an EAS-PI-3 power inserter module would make sure it gets back up to 15 volts.

Many speakers

In most projects, our modules operate well within their comfort zone, simply because of practical concerns and how most buildings are laid out. For instance, it often makes sense to have an EAS-24-NODE-4D only utilize a couple of its 24-volt amp outputs, feeding four or five EAS-AMP-30D amps in one location. They some times power two speakers each, so even in this example you’ve got ten speakers running off this one NODE.

The EAS-24-NODE-4D

But as you can tell by looking on the right side of the picture above, it has four of those 24-volt outputs. If they all fed three three amps with two speakers each, this small node would distribute audio to 24 speakers. What then, if we used a larger node? Multiply that number by three.

The EAS-24-NODE-12D

And if you still need more in one location, simply daisy chain to a second node. Or a third. We hardly ever see this happening, but in those rare cases, it’s good to know you certainly could.

Another take if the physical space allows for a more centralized amp location, would be to serial/parallel wire many speakers connected to a powerful EAS-AMP-250D or even the 500 watts EAS-AMP-500D. One of those alone would be able to power a bunch of speakers depending on volume requirements. And again, if you need more, simply daisy chain another amp to keep going.

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Get EAS Admin up and running https://laud-media.com/support/eas-admin_install/ Fri, 24 Jul 2020 12:13:37 +0000 http://18.184.53.122/?p=4464 Single bus EAS systems will work right off the shelf without configuration, but if you’re doing a larger system that includes a SYSCON, several volume zones using FX panels or just want to make EQ adjustments in a challenging room – you’re going to need EAS Admin.

Install and run the application

While we’re working on remote control, EAS Admin is as of now a Windows application. We suggest installing it on a laptop if you’re going on-site, and in this day and age it will probably run Windows 10.

  • First you’ll want to download the zipped installer found at the very top of the EAS support page. That location always will always provide the latest release.
  • Inside you’ll find your typical Windows installer executable. Run that and just go along with the wizard, clicking Next, Accept, OK etc. until you finally get to the Finish button.
  • EAS Admin is now installed. The quickest way to find and start it, is by pressing the Windows-button on your keyboard once and start typing “eas”. It will pop up and you simply press Enter to run the application.

Wire it up

With EAS Admin installed, all you need now is a connection to the EAS System using a USB interface: either the the small EAS Adapter USB dongle we provide, or the EAS-CP-V. There is also the option to connect to a SYSCON-12 via serial connection, but that’s only used in rare cases.

Which one you use doesn’t really matter, and where you connect to your bus doesn’t matter either. Just find an available RJ-45 EAS connection on one of your modules. If all are in use, just unplug a non-configurable device temporarily.

Select USB device and Connect

  • When starting the app make sure it’s set to EAS Adapter, unless you’re connecting via a SYSCON-12.
  • Now press Connect to scan the system for all available devices.

And that’s it, you’re up and running and other articles take over. Feel free to check out related support articles on how to do specific things inside EAS Admin.

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Use FX panels to control volume groups https://laud-media.com/support/fx-volume-groups/ Tue, 21 Jul 2020 12:51:00 +0000 http://18.184.53.122/?p=4406 Within each bus you can group devices together to create “volume zones”. Let’s say you have an FX-panel on the wall and want to be able to adjust the hallway and the toilets separately. You do this by making groups and assign volume controls accordingly. Here’s how it’s done.

The basics first

  • Your list of modules should contain both an FX volume panel and at least one module capable of acting as volume group masters (like the NODE-4D and AMP-250D in this example).

If you’re missing one or more modules, make sure they have unique IDs. If two modules have the same ID, they will both be missing from the list after scanning your system.

Create a New Group

  • Click New Group on the top of your module list.
  • Instead of a default name like “Group 1”, feel free to give it a name that provides some context.
  • Then select your Master module. It will take responsibility for keeping track of group members and relaying commands. The Master will naturally become the first group member on the right side list, indicated with a crown.
  • Add other available devices to this group as fits the project. You don’t have to, as you migt just want to control one single module with a strip on your FX panel.
  • Now decide on a group ID. This is used to direct messages coming from the FX panel in the next section.
  • Lastly, press the green Store button.

Configure the FX panel

  • In the top list of modules, find and click the FX panel you want to configure. This will bring up the panel configuration editor in the bottom half of the window.
  • Under Layout on the left, click the strip you want to control to the group you just made.
  • Under Editor, simply select the ID/name of that group.

And that’s it. You’re done. The panel should now go from blinking like this:


To statically showing the current volume/status like this:

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